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Negotiate the best deal you can.
This is the point in time when your
stress level will rise. You had a lot of fun test
driving cars and looking at different models and
you are on an emotional high because you found the
car you want. It is this emotional high that the
car salesperson preys on. You really want the car
and he says he wants to get you a great deal. Even
the best negotiators will be taken if they allow
their emotions to get the best of them. Relax, keep
a straight poker face and let the salesperson know
that you like the car but it must be a deal that
is acceptable to you.
Professional Negotiators.
Keep in mind that car dealers are
professional negotiators. They do it hundreds of
times a day and you will never beat them at their
game. The entire time they have been with you, they
are sizing you up. Are you strictly a payment buyer?
Are you big on getting top dollar for your trade
in? Is the sales price the most important part of
the deal? Do you want a very low or no down payment?
Once he knows your weakness he will zero in on that
and keep you off the other aspects of the deal.
Don't be a payment buyer.
The car dealers love these people.
They will do everything in their power to get you
the payment you want and will screw you every place
else. One of the first questions a salesperson will
ask is what payment are you trying to stay around.
People automatically answer with a payment. The
answer should be: " The payment is not really
a factor, I am more interested in the best price
on this car."
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Here
are the 4 areas the Car Dealer will
focus on:
Monthly
Payment (interest
rate and length of loan)
Trade
In
Down
Payment
Price
of car
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The salesperson will focus
on one or two of the above items and ignore the
others. This is how they get you to let down your
guard and also ignore those items. You must focus
on all four of those items and make sure each one
is where you need it to be. Many people think they
are getting the payment they want and after they
sign and drive home they realize they just signed
a 6 yeat loan at sticker price and got screwed on
their trade in. But they got the payment they wanted.
It happens everyday.
They will try to wear you down.
At some point in the negotiation process they will
bring in another person to work on you. This may
be a manager, a closer or just another salesperson.
Stick to your guns and if you are feeling worn out
and getting nowhere. Simply get up and tell them
this is taking too long and I'm tired so I'm going
home. Call me when you are ready to do this deal.
Start walking and if they don't change their attitude
leave. Call another dealer and tell him on the phone
what you want and you already have the numbers for
a fast and easy deal. Very few dealers will ever
let you just leave, but if you don't change their
attitude they will keep hammering you.
Start with your Trade In.
Tell them that before you start negotiating you
want a firm price for your trade in. Get it in
signed in writing. Some car buying experts
will tell you to not mention your trade until after
you negotiate a price on your new car. But the
salesperson will ask you if you have a trade in.
We always complain about salespeople that lie. Don't
lie about anything, tell them yes I have a trade
in and I would like to get a offer on it before
we move forward. Be realistic, you are not going
to get retail for your trade so get what you consider
a fair price based on the print outs you have with
you.
Once you have agreed on a fair
price for your trade you will now be ready to negotiate
the sales price of the car. They will try to
move you to a payment right away and ignore the
sale price. Stay focused and tell him you want a
firm price on the car before we talk payment. You
will work from invoice down not up (don't fall for
that $500 over invoice line) and add any rebates
available and ask if the dealer has any rebates.
You should already have the invoice prices in your
notes and should present them to the salesperson
to let him know where you stand. Tell him you would
like to be no higher than invoice and lower if possible.
If you have a rebate this should be deducted from
the invoice price also. Do not start moving up from
invoice and be prepared to get up and walk if he
won't work with you.
Invoice price
is not the price the dealer paid for the car!
Don't believe any salesperson that tells you that.
Some will try to sell it at $500 over invoice and
tell you they're only making $500 on the car. That
is a lie.They may also add a lot of fees to the
invoice to pad it. If you are a hard core negotiator
you can work them down from invoice by removing
all the extra fees tacked on. Look for special
sales promotion fund, advertising fees, dealer
prep fees. If it doesn't look real it probably
isn't. One trick we found in Arizona is called
a "Desert protection package" for
$700. What the heck is a "desert protection
package"? Tell them to take it off. The
destination charge is real and you will have to
pay for that. Any rebates should be subtracted from
the invoice price not the sticker price. If you
have a invoice of $20,000 and a $2500 rebate you
should at $17,500. Be careful here it can get confusing.
Do not let a salesperson tell you the rebate is
subtracted from the sticker, another lie. If you
are buying car near the end of a model year many
factories give the dealer :Factory to Dealer Incentives"
to allow the dealer to lower the price to sell it
faster. Many dealers do not pass these discounts
on to you.
The down payment may be your
trade in or any cash you are comfortable putting
down. The best deal you can make is about 20%
of the sales price. Make sure all the down
payment money is in the contract and subtracted
from the sales price.
The monthly payment is where
you can really get screwed. If you have read
the material in this site you should already know
what your credit
score is and if you have not already
secured
a loan from an online lender or at least you should
know what the current
interest rates are. That is why payment is the
last part of your negotiating process. At this point
you will let them know you already have your credit
report and outside financing, but I will give your
finance people one opportunity to get me a better
rate for the same amount of months. If you don't
have outside financing then let them know what the
going rates are based on your credit score and you
won't accept anything higher. DO NOT sign
a buyers agreement with "Subject
To Financing" in it or you will
get a call several days later that the lender fell
through but we have another lender at a higher rate
or a longer loan term.
The bottom line.
The process of buying a car used
to be a long, all day, drawn out process designed
to wear you down and get you to settle for what
you felt was a good deal. If you are prepared with
your paperwork in hand and already know all of the
information you need to know, the process should
only take a few hours and if they won't accept your
information, leave. Don't play games, you have the
right to get up and leave anytime you are not comfortable
with the process.
Do not ever get emotional about
a car or you will lose your focus and they will
get you. Car Dealers deserve to earn a profit but
you should not give away your hard earned money
in excess profit. No car dealer in the world is
going to lose money on a deal, if they are they
will simply not sell you the car.
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